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Clothing |
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Clothing |
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Clothing.
The uniform of the Sixth Wisconsin consists of the black felt uniform hat, dark blue uniform coat with infantry piping, sky blue wool trousers and black leather bootees often mistakenly called brogans. Other items of clothing include canvas leggings of the appropriate style and white gloves. This is the uniform most familiar to observers of the Iron Brigade.
The Black Hat
The most distinquishing uniform feature of the Iron Brigade was the tall black hat. Known officially the Uniform Hat, it is also mistakenly called the Hardee Hat. According to Army regulations, it should be made of black felt,with double row of stiching around the edge. The top of the crown should be flat with a reinforced label inside for the utmost in authenticity. A thin black ribbon should be at the base of the crown.
The Uniform Hat may be trimmed with the infantry blue wool cord,
black ostrich feather, brass eagle, infantry bugle, company letter
and regimental number. For the period 1863 - 1865, a 1st Corps
badge is appropriate. The hat, as issued, with all the trimmings
rarely stayed in that condition. Period photographs show them
in every stage from fully dressed to displaying only a corps badge.
How you wear your hat is a matter of individual choice. Fully
trimmed with feather on the right and the left side looped up
or plain with the crown creased and battered for the campaign
look-both are proper. Many reenactment scenarios call for NO CORPS
BADGES. Company K supports event sponsor's wishes as much as practicable.
The Frock Coat
Popularly called the frock coat, the Uniform Coat per regulations, "is a single breasted frock, of dark blue cloth, made without plaits, with a skirt extending one-half the distance from the top of the hip to the bend of the knee; one row of nine buttons on the breast, placed at equal distances; stand-up collar, to rise no higher than to permit the chin to turn freely over it, to hook in front at the bottom, and then to slope up and backward at an angle of thirty degrees on each side; cuffs pointed according to pattern, and to button wih two small buttons at the under seam; collar and cuffs edged with a cord or welt of cloth as follows-sky-blue for infantry, narrow lining for the skirt of the coat, of the same color and material as the coat; pockets in the folds of the skirts, with one button at each hip to range with the lowest buttons on the breast; no buttons at the end of the pockets." These are the details to look for.
Made to fit snugly about the body and loose in the arms, though
those issued to this regiment were made loose on purpose. No decorations
are worn on the coat in the field. During parades and ceremonies,
the Iron Brigade Association Ribbon is authorized for wear on
the left breast.
The men of the Sixth Wisconsin were first issued uniform coats
in the winter of 1862. The regiment drew issues of the coat throughout
the war. Some regiments of the brigade also chose to issue the
four-button sack coat, but the Sixth did not. The men were spared
both the cost of two coats, and the weight of carrying two coats
on the march. Some Sixth Wisconsin boys did obtain the sack coat-usually
while in the hospital recovering from wounds received in battle.
Trowsers
That is the correct spelling- according to regulations. "All trowsers to be made loose, without plaits, and to spread well over the boot." Quartermaster records show that the Sixth Wisconsin was issued sky-blue wool trousers throughout the war. The Army did not provide suspenders for the soldiers, but most wore them. Stay away from the elastic ones and go for linen or canvas.
Bootees
Civil War soldiers marched thousands of miles during the four years of war. You may not march quite that much, but do not underestimate the need for proper shoes. Your soles are the soul of the infantryman. Buy the proper black leather period shoe and make sure that they fit well. They may look like something that Dr. Frankenstein's monster might wear, but they protect and support your feet-your most prized possession. Several styles are popular, but all have squared toes. They come with sewn soles or pegged soles in smooth leather or rough out leather. Rough out leather is easier to keep clean, but they do not take a shine. Both are proper. Bootees should be among your very first items of clothing that you get.
Proper shoes are only half of the battle for taking care of your
feet. The other half is correct socks. Thick wool socks are highly
recommended. Most issue socks were gray, but the soldiers received
socks from home, too. Avoid wearing more than one pair of these
socks at a time. Blisters may be best avoided by wearing a thin
inner sock under the thicker wool sock. WASH YOUR FEET DAILY,
and keep that second pair of socks dry. Your feet will thank you.
Leggins
The Iron Brigade received one issue of white canvas leggins in the spring of 1862. No other issues were made. When they wore out, they were not replaced. Leggins should be short, coming just below the calf muscle. They should loop up the outside edge and be secured at the top with a strap of leather. Another strap of leather is rivetted at the bottom to go underneath the instep. This item is best acquired from the company which can have them custom made for each soldier. Other leggins are not appropriate.
Gloves
Iron Brigade commander John Gibbon insisted that each man wear white cotton gloves when on parade. These were issued several times to the regiments, and lasted far longer than the leggins. Company K does not require them, though they do add a touch of style to the uniform and look quite nice with polished brass and boots. They are required for the company drill team.
Other Items of Clothing
Shirts should be made of cotton in warm weather, wool flannel in cooler temperatures and be in the period pull-over style. They come with or without collars, plain or fancy. Be sure to get two. Nothing affects your outlook like changing into a clean shirt on Saturday night.
Drawers, full-length and made of cotton are highly recommended. They act as insulation from the heat or cold and as protection from the course wool trousers. Several styles are available, all are appropriate and, like the shirt, two pair were issued to each soldier. Wear a pair of pajama bottoms if all else fails, just be sure to tuck them into your socks-out of sight!
Blankets protect you from the cold and provide shade from the sun. Every soldier carried one wool blanket. It was usually gray with a black stripe at each end. Some had US embroidered on them, but most did not. Other wool blankets were brown with a dark brown stripe at each end. You do not need a blanket to take the field, but you will need one to camp out.
Each soldier was also issued a rubber blanket. Face down, it served
as a ground cover. With a slit for the head, it served as a poncho
to protect from the rain. Many soldiers carried both the rubber
blanket and the poncho. They would put the ground blanket down,
then the wool blanket and the poncho on top-nice and toasty! Like
the wool blanket, these are not necessary to take part in a battle
reenactment, but are useful when bivouacing with the troops.
As a member of Company K, your duty to the original regiment
is to provide an accurate visual impression. The right clothing
is available and now you know just what details to look for.
Under this title is included all of the gear you will need to camp with your comrades in the field. Though most of these items are not necessary to portray a soldier during a battle-the most exciting aspect of reenacting-they are essential to gaining a clear understanding of what the soldier's life was like when he was not fighting. Not only did the soldier spend more time on the march or in camp than he did in battle, but so do reenactors. For many, the time spent in camp, after the day is done, with fires crackling and stars shining above is the most rewarding part of recreating history.
Canteen
THE most important item of equipment is your canteen. You
cannot take part in any drill or battle without one. Make this
one of your very first purchases and keep it full. Water is life.
The union issue canteen was made of tin with a cork stopper. It
was round and covered in wool, mostly brown or gray, less often
in sky blue, and occasionally dark blue. It had either a leather
or white canvas or linen strap. Some had reinforcing rings and
were called Bullseye Canteens. All held about a quart.
Many reenactors choose the stainless steel reproduction in order
to eliminate that inevitable iron taste from their water. With
the wool cover there is little visual difference. Only you will
know the difference. In order to get the proper fit, shorten the
strap so that the canteen does not flop around while you are marching.
Haversack
All Civil War soldiers were issued a haversack to carry
their food rations and whatever few personal possessions they
had. The union issue was made of black painted canvas with a removable
inner bag. Like the canteen, you should shorten the strap so that
it does not move around too much.
Mess Gear
Each soldier was issued a tin cup, a tin plate and set
of utensils including a knife, fork and spoon. Many only used
the tin cup and a spoon and carried a pocket knife for cutting.
Stay away from speckleware-it was not used by soldiers.
Knapsack
The knapsack is very useful for carrying your blankets
and extra clothing. It also makes a great pillow. During battle
it was usually one of the first pieces of equipment left behind,
so it should be one of the last pieces of equipment you obtain.
The federal model was made of black painted canvas like the haversack.
It had two pockets and straps on top and was called the double-bag
knapsack.
Tentage
You have two choices for authentic tentage. Each soldier
received a white canvas shelter half and by buttoning two together
they made a shelter tent. These tents were also called dog tents
because the soldiers said they were fit only for dogs-and small
dogs at that. Two tentmates would fix bayonets, invert their muskets
and stick them into the ground up to the muzzle. A rope was strung
between the two weapons and staked into the ground. The buttoned
halves were thrown over the rope and the sides staked into the
ground leaving both ends open. During foul weather, gum blankets
were placed over the ends. Reenactors generally use two upright
poles and a ridge pole foraged from the woods instead of their
muskets. Reproduction bayonets are not as strong as their original
counterparts.
The second choice is a common tent, also called the wedge or A-tent.
This tent is also made of white canvas, is bigger than the dog
tent and is more difficult to set up. This tent requires two uprights
and a ridge pole. These tents can hold three or four soldiers
easily and provide more protection from wind and rain than a dog
tent. They also allow more room for you to bring more stuff-and
that is the danger. More is not always better.
Both types of tentage were used during the war. Whenever the wagons
could be brought up and camps established, the common tents would
be set up. Otherwise, shelter tents were used. Many times on campaign
no tents were used and the men simply slept on the ground wrapped
up in their blankets.
Bedding
For the Civil War soldier, bedding usually consisted of
nothing more than throwing their blanket on the ground and wrapping
themselves up in it. Whenever they could, however, they showed
great imagination in gathering leaves, straw, fence rails or anything
else to keep them up off the ground.
Reenactors face even more choices. Only your level of desired
authenticity will determine which sort of bedding you'll need.
At the least, most choose a mattress tick filled with straw which
is usually available at each event. Placed on top of the gum blanket,
it insulates you from ground moisture. Those with bad backs or
other physical ailments sometimes resort to cots-the lower to
the ground the better.
Try several different bedding types to find what works best for
you. Remember that some events restrict the type of camp set up
and you may only be able to bring what you can carry on your back-just
as the soldiers we portray had to do.
Rifle
The variety of weapons used during the Civil War remains
a major point of interest for today's buffs. Reenactors fire period
pistols, carbines, rifles and even cannons or their modern reproductions
in public demonstrations of battles and live-fire competitions.
Many types of reproduction muskets and rifles are available to
the infantry reenactor. Before deciding which to buy, consider
the history of your regiment.
The first muskets issued to the Sixth Wisconsin were heavy, clumsy
Belgian rifles of .69 caliber. Companies A and B received them
as the regiment camped in Patterson Park in Baltimore on their
way to Washington D.C. in August, 1861. The remainder of the regiment
received theirs soon after. In February, 1862 the unpopular Belgian
rifles were traded in for .58 caliber Springfield rifles. For
the rest of the war, the regiment was issued only the Springfield
rifle. The models issued included the M1855, M1861, M1863 and
M1864, with M1861 being most used.
Company K maintains only that a three band rifle or musket be
carried due to most event regulations. The Springfield is recommended
as it is historically correct. It is also lighter than the Enfield
rifle and therefore easier to carry. The Springfield does require
more effort to keep shining because of its bright barrel, and
it is a little more expensive.
Bayonet
Despite Hollywood's depiction of the bayonet as a fierce
fighting instrument, it caused relatively few actual wounds during
the Civil War. Less than 2% of the casualties of that conflict
were inflicted by sword or bayonet. Like the Civil War soldier,
you will find your bayonet very useful as a candleholder or tent
pin and it does come in handy when stacking arms. It should be
of good stout steel and may require some fitting to your particular
rifle.
Cartridge Box
Your accouterments are the black leather gear necessary
to keep your rifle a lethal weapon. The cartridge box holds forty
rounds of paper wrapped cartridges in two removable tins. The
box should have two flaps and an envelope to hold tools. It is
supported by a cartridge box sling which goes over your left shoulder.
Both sling and box have a heavy brass plate for decoration. It
goes on first.
Waist Belt
The waist belt goes on after the cartridge box. It is secured
by a heavy brass waist belt plate on one end and by a light brass
keeper on the other. The belt holds the cap box and bayonet scabbard.
Cap Box
The cap box holds percussion caps needed to fire the paper
wrapped cartridges. The boxes have a double flap and a piece of
lambs wool to keep the small caps from going all over. The better
cap boxes come with a nipple pick for that part of the rifle.
It should be worn on the right side of the waist belt at the front.
Bayonet Scabbard
The scabbard holds the bayonet and is worn on the left
side of the waist belt. The Springfield pattern scabbard is best
because it holds the bayonet at an angle and out of the way when
worn properly.
Musket Tools
To keep your rifle functioning, you need to keep it clean.
A screwdriver and wiper-sometimes called a worm-and some patches
are all you need. Original pieces are plentiful and reproductions
are also available. These are kept in the small envelope on the
front of the cartridge box. Also useful is the tompion. Placed
in a freshly cleaned barrel, it prevents moisture from fouling
the weapon. You may find a sling quite helpful, too. On a long
march it is very comfortable to throw your rifle over your shoulder
instead of carrying it. Don't forget your gun case-most states
require that you transport your rifle in one.
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